Istanbul Part 2 Monday, May 28 2007 


The Church Where We Attended Service

Sorry I haven’t gotten this out sooner! I’ve had quite a few problems with my internet lately. I know, I’ve said that a lot here, but it’s true! My internet often becomes completely unreliable for a week at a time, and that gets me lazy, and it means I can’t upload photos well, and then I can’t post, etc. Anyway, here we go.

Our morning started early (considering how little sleep we had getting to Istanbul and how much we did our first day there) so that we could attend church at St. Antonio di Padova, the biggest Catholic church in Istanbul. Carey really wanted to go, and the fact that they offered an English mass was appealing to me, so the lot of us trekked out to the church on Sunday morning. It was nice to be in church again, especially with a friend as close as Carey. The sermon could have been better, but the ceremony of it all was familiar enough (I joked with the others, most of whom were Catholic, that when they finally got to spots of the mass that I recognized I perked up real quick).


A Demonstration Seen From a Cafe Window

After church we were all a bit hungry, so we decided to try to find some food in the same area we had been walking around the night before (which is where we discovered the church and its English mass to begin with). We went into a cafe which had a large second floor window from where we could people watch. There was no food, but decent tea and chess. I taught Leslie Lindsey a bit of how to play, which was fun. The had open the window for us, which was wonderful in the warmish weather. As we were sitting there, parts of a demonstration (of which we were ignorant of at that time) came by. We saw some of the story on CNN that evening at the hostel.


The Galata Tower

After we left the cafe and found some food down the street, we made our way to the Galata Tower, which you can climb to get some magnificent views of Istanbul, even if the place is extremely crowded. The tower has a lot of history, and was to me one of the more interesting places we visited.


A View of the Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sofia, and the Blue Mosque from the Galata Tower

After that we wanted to catch a ferry to head over the the Asian part of Istanbul. The Asian part felt far less touristed and was a lot cheaper. I bought my spices from a bazaar there, rather than at the Grand Bazaar or the Egyptian Bazaar. It was a lot cheaper there. Carey got the idea of buying some fish there and making it for dinner at the hostel. I put my well honed scrounging abilities to the test and found a five lire disposable grill (charcoal included!), we grabbed the yummiest looking fish, some fresh herbs and spices, and took it all home with us.


Where I Bought My Spices

I can’t begin to explain how this idea became the perfect storm… Perhaps I should have known something like this was going to happen when Casey contributed the idea of calling the toilets of Georgiana simply “Auburns,” as in, “hang on a sec, I’m going to the Auburn.” Any trip that has that good of a contribution to Carey’s and my retirement plan to open up the ultimate Southern restaurant is gonna have some crazy like a fox fool idea from Carey and/or me and turn out to be a miracle. As it ended up, Carey grilled up some of the tastiest stuff ever.


The Fish Monger’s From Where Our Dinner Came

At the hostel things were going perfectly. First off, they said itwas no problem to grill on the roof. They even gave us extra charcoal. There was actually a grill up there, but it was is such a state that we didn’t want to even attempt to clean it or use it. Nonetheless, we fired up our own disposable, which did quite well enough anyway. Carey grilled some vegetables, including green onions, after oiling them up with olive oil. I had never had grilled green onions before, and they were absolutely delicious! I mean, just amazing how yummy and yet so simple.


Carey Works His Magic

After the vegetables finished, Care-Bear started grilling the fish. He had been preparing them all along, but basically he spiced them with olive oil, salt, red pepper, and some other stuff, but then put fresh mint, lemon, and green onion between the fillets to cook in a foil packing. The result was wonderful. Tender, tasty, and oh so complimented by the grilled veggies. For dessert he made a steamed apples thing too. We decided to call the whole meal the “Istanbul Special” for when we offer it at Georgiana.


A Perfect Night

I think that experience of grilling and eating at the hostel with Carey, Leslie, Casey, and Lindsey was my favorite bit of the trip. It was just great to sit back, have a few beers, grill, and enjoy the open air (oh year, we grilled on the roof!). It felt like being home again.


The Pièce de Résistance

Near the end of the evening Carey had to go use the restroom. He had given me instructions to get him another beverage, but I got the idea that he deserved a bit of a present for his great work. I grabbed the leftover foil and made quick work of wrapping up his beer. The following set of images are Carey discovering and opening his present:

As you can see, he was quite happy. He especialy loved the foil ball used for a bow.

After dinner we were all pretty tired and went to bed, which wraps up day two of my Istanbul trip. Sometime soon I’ll add day three, which includes the Blue Mosque and Topkapi palace. Thanks for hanging in there with me. Also, please don’t forget to donate to my PCPP project if you haven’t yet. You can donate here.

Goodly News – PCPP Approved! Please Donate! Thursday, May 10 2007 


A recycled pic, but one that shows the difference your donation can make

My PCPP grant has been approved and I am now seeking sponsors! The project is to build some kitchenette units in the dormitory of the reformatory institution at which I work. With the kitchenettes (which include a sink/stovetop/refrigerator combo made by Whirlpool) the kids with whom I work will be able to keep leftovers from the cafeteria and heat them up whenever they want. If you are interested in donating, please click here.

In other news, I’ve begun teaching some basic weight training to the kids at my institution. It’s always a struggle to get them to understand everything, mostly because they don’t have too long of an attention span and tend to drift off when I’m talking, but most of them are getting it. The other thing is that they all want to be in there at once, but it’s difficult to manage more than 4 at a time, especially when everything you’re teaching them is new. They need to know which exercises do what, how to spot someone, how to lift properly (wrist position, go slow, etc.), all of which requires close supervision. Doing groups of fours allows me to pair them up on different exercises and keep an eye on everything going on. With more than that you have kids running off to different machines or weights, possibly damaging equipment, hurting themselves, etc. Still, it’s rewarding to have that thing open and running.

This weekend should be a lot of fun. A group of friends – some old, some new – will be coming up to attend a festival at a nearby village. It’s going to be a lot of good food and conversation. I’ve been cleaning the apartment in preparation, but am starting to wish I employed a maid.

Finally, I understand that Adam’s mom reads my blog, so hey there, Mrs. French. Thanks for reading!

Istanbul Part 1 Monday, May 7 2007 


Stocks for the ride down

Sorry about the delay in getting this post done. I’ve been meaning to, but between getting some other work done, birthday weekends calling me away from Zavet, and finally uploading the pics to my WordPress account I’ve been slow moving. Anyway, let’s go through day one in Istanbul, eh?


Leslie, Lindzey, Casey, and Carey at the end of the Orient Express

Thursday I came down to Razgrad to spend some time with Johna and Alana. They were travelling to Sofia that night anyway, so it was fun to travel together. The next day I went into the office and had a decent conversation with my program managers and the lady in charge of grants. I also got the opportunity to say goodbye to Carl, my country director, who was having his last day on the job. I spent most of the afternoon hunting for money, getting the run around from the bank about needing my passport and not my Bulgarian ID to get my money out from a branch location since it hadn’t gone through to our ATMs yet. However, half way towards the train station I checked an ATM, and it was there, so I didn’t have to go any further. After that I went to the mall to cool off and have a coffee and buy groceries from the supermarket in the basement there before meeting my Istanbul companions for dinner.

I met Carey, Lindzey, and Casey at Happy, Bulgaria’s aping of a Ruby Tuesday’s, and showed off my grocery goods, including a tasty watermelon and small packets of beef jerky. Then soon began the long train ride through the night. We I got a few liters of wine, and that helped immensely, thought it also contributed to Carey’s volume. Fun was still had by all. We picked up Leslie in Plovdiv and we all stayed up till the border crossing. The crossing was a bit annoying. First off it was really cold outside at 3am. Secondly, we got redirected from one line to another, and didn’t realize that the one line to buy our visas was the first of the two as we had to renter the other line after. We has gotten back on the train instead. Later we were told to get off and cut in line to go through passport control. Why this couldn’t all be done at one window or the other is beyond me.


This, but times a bajillion, is the Grand Bazaar

We arrived the next morning in time to get to the hostel long before check-in. We decided to get started and headed for the Grand Bazaar, which was a lot larger than I had imagined. One really cannot grasp the massiveness of it in pictures, since it’s a labyrinth of passages that don’t seem too long in themselves until you realize they lead to a dozen more. It was certainly an experience going through the hard sell that the barkers there impose upon you. It was a theme to repeat itself constantly in Istanbul, and was my least favorite part of the trip.


A lamp shop in the Grand Bazaar

After the GB, we headed for the Egyptian Bazaar, which specializes in spices. It was a bit too pricey for my tastes (bucket ‘o fish!), and I didn’t get anything there, but I certainly wanted to. The availability of such quantities of really high quality spices is a cook’s dream, and the smells as you walked around were fantastic. Luckily I was able to find cheaper but no less quality stuff later, but that’s for post number two.


Little piles of heaven at the Spice Bazaar

Mingled in with our time at the Bazaars and walking around we had plenty of opportunities to try Turkish food. Most commonly during the trip I got beef and lamb doeners, which for the uninformed are sort of like gyros you get in Greek and Lebanese places back home. The stuff in Istanbul is great, and what’s even better is that they serve them with lettuce and onion and tomatoes (even if I tell them no tomatoes for me) instead of french fries like they do here! It felt a lot healthier to eat them without the fries inside. The bread was also a lot nicer than anything they serve in Bulgaria.


A street near the Bazaars with their overflow

After the Bazaars everyone was a bit tired, so we made our way back to the hostel. After a shower and some internetting the boys and I decided to go get shaved. Being shaved in Istanbul is quite the experience, and is quite literally a trial by fire for visitors there. I started out with abnormal hair cut (which I badly needed), but was then shaved afterwards. Included with the normal shave and a haircut (which costed far more than two bits) was the demon string! The string (or demon string as I like to call it) was where the barber twists a lengthy loop of string and, while running it up and down areas of their client’s skin, loosens and tightens the smaller loops formed by twisted main loop. The result is that massive amounts of hair (upper cheek and eyebrow) are ripped out at once. If you’re not expecting it and did not know what the heck the crazy man with the razor was doing it is quite a shock. Even when they did the other side for me and I knew what I was in for, it made me wince in pain. Next up was the fire! They take a lighter and burn the hair from your ears! Inside and out! It sounds and looks crazy, but aside from them smacking your ear with their fingers each time to make sure you don’t get burned, that parts actually painless, even if it is insane.


My ear is on fire! Who’s talking about me?

After that we all headed out to the Taksim district, which is the consumer center of Istanbul, with a large nightlife scene with restaurants, bars, and clubs. We ate at a Picadilly/ cafeteria style place where we chose our meals while heading down a service line, but the guides had recommended it and it was good. After dinner we were all tired and went home for a good night’s sleep.I’ll

I’ll post about the next two days of the trip soon!