Last week I had to go into Sofia for my COS I, which is three days during which all volunteers take care of administrative and medical stuff within a month of leaving the country. It basically consists of a TB test, getting new vaccinations for any that have expired, a physical exam, and an exit interview with one of the top three administrators. My particular schedule also included getting an MRI done on my knee, which confirmed the diagnosis that the doctors had made earlier, that being a small tear in the ligament. Basically I still have to keep from doing anything that would put too much strain on the knee is all.
I came in on a Tuesday and had my TB injection and my physical exam, and was told that I had to go back in two days to get it checked. That evening I didn’t have too much to do, so I went to the theatre to see the new Harry Potter film. I am still disappointed in it as an adaptation of the book. There were many things I felt it did poorly, such as the discovery of the DA and the revolt of the Weasley twins, but as a film in itself I really enjoyed it. The relationship between Harry and Sirius was done particularly well. After the film I went to Andrea and Boudreaux’s place, where I was staying. Ended up that Thomas and Apryl were there too, so it was a nice little group to hang out with.

Carey and Matt Entering Nessebur
The next day I had nothing to do until my MRI appointment at 6, so I ended up hanging out at Andrea and Boudreaux’s watching TV shows for a few hours before heading out. I ended up meeting Ronda eventually, who was hanging out Rachel, a friend of a third PCV named Grace who was in Bulgaria visiting from Cairo, where she’s been studying. We ended up chatting about my own upcoming trip to Egypt, which was nice. After getting my MRI done I ended up hanging out with Alex, who was in town for the SPA committee meeting (as was Ronda). We went to the mall, had coffee, and he went over SPA stuff while I wrote some note cards. Late that night Matt finally came in from Sarajevo (via Belgrade). Matt used to be my sitemate a year ago, but he left and there was a year gap before Joe showed up. We went out for beers and food and had a goof time catching up.
The next day we had to go to the office around 10:00 to go to my interview and to get my TB test done. Matt wanted to come along to meet with his old program staff and other friends still working with PC HQ that he knew from his time there (we’ve since gotten quite a few new folks to replace ones who left just before or after he did). My interview was interesting. It was with the new Country Director, who is the head of Peace Corps in a given country. Our new CD is Lesley Duncan, who has apparently been PC her whole life – rumor has it she was born while both parents were serving in the Peace Corps, or something like that, was a volunteer herself, and has been a PC staffer since. Anyway, there have been a lot of stuff going around about how Peace Corps Bulgaria is going to be very different with her at the lead, and now that I’ve interviewed her, I agree with it.
She has a very specific idea of what the life of a PCV should be, and she is prepared to mold PC Bulgaria to fit that image at the cost of existing PCV lifestyles and institutions. From what I understand, she’s already shut down the At-Risk Youth Fund, a PCV run organization that gives micro-grants to organization that work with at-risk youth, and has suggested that the Volunteer Support Network, a group of PCVs that function as peer counselors and social even organizers, may be next. She also seems to have hinted that the Volunteer Advisory Committee, which is the voice of the PCVs to the administration, is not mandated for according to PC rules, and is likewise disposable. Whether or not she actually does any of this things will be quite another matter, but she shared with me her thoughts of what a PCV’s life should be, and what she said was that a volunteer should spend all his time that is not vacation or work-related leave integrating in his town. This means an end to what I like to call “freebies” for PCVs. De facto PC policy in Bulgaria had been this: if your school or organization was on vacation and you were not working on a secondary project – read already completed yours or were set to implement it later without need for immediate work – then you could leave your site without using up vacation days provided you stayed in the country. That would mean that, now that my summer camp is over and my institution has no kids, I could simply go to the beach or visit friends whenever I want to without taking official leave. This is important because that means that you could save you leave days for traveling out of country, which is when you have to use them no matter what unless it’s an official holiday. This practice has ended.

A Seagull on the Tarp Above Our Table
There are arguments to be had for both sides of this decision. Some would say that the extra freedom allowed us to see more of Bulgaria and take in more of the culture of the place. I’ve been all around this country, and much of that would have been impossible if I had had to do it with just the 48 vacation days you get over two years, especially when you look at the limitations they put on when you can spend them – not in the first six months from your arrival and not within three months of leaving. There’s nine months where you can’t travel already. Of course, if you travel outside of the country, you’re probably leaving for extended periods – visiting home, traveling Europe, etc., so those days can go quick. So it made sense to say that the official policy was not as healthy a policy in a place like Bulgaria and that we should adapt it to our own needs. In a place where the only place you’d go is the capital city, it makes sense to keep PCVs dispersed in the country and from gathering in the capital constantly. However, Bulgaria has places to go all over the place, and there’s something to be said about being able to talk about the whole of Bulgaria when we get back (as that’s one third of our mission as PCVs!).
On the other hand, one could say that being forced to spend the majority of your free time in your site makes you that much more integrated. If you’re gone every weekend and never hang out with the locals, you’ll never know what it’s like to be a normal Bulgarian. However, I think that the belief that PCVs are being negligent of their integration into their host communities to the degree that Lesley might imagine them being is misguided. Sure, we travel a lot, but we do it in spurts, with large blocks of time spent right at home with our local friends and neighbors. She seems to want to make that the be all and end all of PCV life outside of the work environment – unless it’s your one free weekend a month, a holiday, or you take leave. She spoke of how she went out into the fields on her free time, and that PCVs here should go work tobacco here in Bulgaria if they have nothing else to do. I really think that’s extreme. I know Matt did it while he was here, but that was because it was his girlfriend’s family’s plot. I don’t imagine that working to bring in crops which I think are a blight on the world to begin with is something I should be encouraged to do. PCV life in Bulgaria is going to have a lot more sitting down with locals doing nothing. That’s not integration; that’s assimilation. Don’t forget, folks, they’re supposed to learn from us too. We’re volunteers folks, and I know there are rules and that they exist for a reason, but life for PCVs in Bulgaria is going to be a lot harder now, and I feel really bad for the folks who, like me, have to live without a sitemate for any period of time or are stuck in small town or, worse, both. Looking at this, I think that organizations like VSN and VAC are more valuable than ever. I hope they don’t get shut down.
Anyway, that’s that, and I’m leaving. So long Bulgaria. I’ve only 17 days left with you. I feel bad for those I leave behind, but at least it’s not my problem. So aside from all that, I thought the interview went well. I had a good talk about my own service, let her know my opinion on a few things, and got out alive. After that, Matt rented a car and we were out of Sofia by 18:00. On our way to Burgas we went to visit his host family (see pic above). We got lost on the way because the roads are so confusing here and are poorly marked, but we surprised them and stayed for about an hour or so. After getting back on the road we got to Burgas without too much trouble, though we didn’t arrive until about 01:00. The next day we got up and went to Nessebur with Carey, who had not seen it before. I had been when seeing Sting in concert a year ago, but it was nice to see it again, as it’s a pretty place, as you can see from all the photos. That night we went out with a bunch of folks to a cool bar where I danced a bit and listened to some of our party play the piano too. It was a good night.

Oh No!!! The Site from the Window
The following morning, however, we discovered that Matt’s rental car had been vandalized! Someone threw a lot of yellow and red latex paint all over it and also let air out of two of the tires. We were able to clean up the important windows and mirrors and inflate the tires, but the body’s paint job is probably ruined. Thankfully the locals hanging out in front of the bloc were able to help us out (paint thinner for the windows and mirrors, a pump for the tires, etc.) and Matt bought insurance, but what a shame! Apparently there was a similar vandalism the week before too! They even showed us where it happened – just on the exact other side of the street we had parked! You can see the paint that dropped on the pavement from the previous week in the picture above – just feet away from our car! Matt had to make a police report for the rental company, which I can tell you is a pain in the butt in this country. Luckily the car was still drivable and Matt didn’t let it spoil his trip. He was soon off to Zavet to visit his friends there. I gave him my keys and stayed in Burgas one more night, which was fun. Carey, Jack, Ronda, Mary-Kate, and I all had a night in watching a movie and eating home cooking. Carey made yummy sandwiches and Ronda did another great lemon meringue pie. Carey and I left the next day, but it was great hanging out at the sea with Jack and Ronda one last time. Below are more pics of the vandalism.
One funny thing to come of it all was a news article about the vandalizing. Some PCVs get news briefs sent out from PC with all the headlines. Here is an excerpt showing how much a paper can get wrong in this country:
From 24 Chassa A liquid the color of oil was thrown over the vehicle used by an American national in Burgas’s Pobeda neighborhood on Saturday night. The car had its tires flattened too. Matt Thomas from Washington was staying with friends who had recently got an apartment in Burgas when this incident happened. Reportedly he was teaching English in a village in Razgrad region. Monday – pg. 5
Come on, “a liquid the color of oil?” And it’s Matt Thompson, not Thomas, and he USED to teach English in Zavet, which is a small town, not a Village. Oh, and Jack and Ronda have been in Burgas for a year now. There’s nothing recent about the move. *sigh*
Anyway, back in Zavet this week things have been spoko. Monday Will came over from Isperih to help Joe with Baseball. Tuesday I was able to send a package home of all the stuff I don’t want to pack with me but don’t want to leave behind from Razgrad. Yesterday I cleaned house quite a bit, and last night Joe and I went out with some local girls and had a good time at our favorite little bar. Last night my boiler stopped working, but I got it fixed again. If it stops again the guy knows what part he needs to replace, so that’s good. He’s the same guy who fixed a different problem on it before, and isn’t charging me anything, which is great. We had a good conversation where he explained what was wrong to me, and little by little I got it. Apparently the switch inside the boiler that senses the water is cool and should be heated is faulty. I was quite proud of myself for getting all the other details too, but that’s the actual problem. In other news, I have some pics of the kitchenette units that we purchased with my PCPP money. You can see one of the units below. If you click on the picture for a larger image, you’ll see the nice new tile work on the floor, and some on the wall, which still needs to be finished. I think that’s what they’ll all look like in the end. I’m hoping they’ll be done in two weeks, so I can see the finished product when I’m done.

Sink, Stove Top, and Fridge All-in-One
That’s pretty much it for now. I have only a few weeks left and I can’t wait to start my travels. If you want a post card, by the way, let me know. I’ll send you one from somewhere if you give me your address.












