The last three days in Sarajevo were less focused on exploring the city and doing fun stuff and more focused on just relaxing and enjoying ourselves. A lot of my time was spent chasing a position at the OSCE. It didn’t work out, obviously, but it was the first spark of interest in working in Sarajevo. Anyway, the first night back from Mostar we went out to the Sarajevo Brewery, where Carey couldn’t hold on to his beer, apparently.
Ivana Got a "Wee" Beer
Then Carey Dumped His on the Table
The next night we celebrated Ben’s Birthday by making food at the house while he was at work and inviting over a bunch of his and Ivana’s friends.
Dutiful Wife and Buddy Working Away in the Kitchen
Ivana Lighting the Birthday Log
Ivana and Friends Enjoy the Party
Jack's Boots, You Wouldn't Understand
On our last day, we pretty much just chilled and wandered around.
My Favorite Sarajevo Picture - Calling out the Prayer without Amplification
I Want to Be This Guy When I'm Old
WWII Fortress on the Hillside - Used During the Seige by the Serbs
On day 5 in Sarajevo Carey and I spent most of the day walking around and hiking (read: getting lost in random neighborhoods). The above shot is one of my favorites from the trip. I’ll just post the pictures without much narrative. Not much had gone on that day. The most interesting part of the hike was the cemetary we went through, complete with the guarded grave of the first president of an independent Bosnia and Herzegovina, Alija Izetbegović. A lot of the graves were from the war. Just thousands of them all with the same years on them during the siege (mostly 92). Here are pics from that hike.
This clock tells how many hours of daylight are left, rather than time, to aid prayer scheduling.
A street dedicated to rug-mongers. Yes, I just made that word up.
Graves
The Grave of B&H’s First President
Another View of the City
Move Graves
Me in Front of a Fortified Hill
Another View of the City, This Time with Carey
A View of the Old Library Where We Saw the Concert
Another City View, Not How the Cemetaries Are Built Right In
Carey Walking Along a Fortified Hill's Wall
A Good View of the Manor That's Bombed in the City Center
Walking Along the City's Edge at the Site of an Old Fortress
Looking out from the City
On day six Carey and I followed the recommendation of our hosts, Ben and Ivana, to visit a town called Mostar. Mostar is so named because of the famous bridge there (most, pronounced like moss with a “T” sound, is the Slavic for “bridge”). It was a site of some of the fiercest fighting during the war, as you’ll see from some of the scarring. The damage sadly included the destruction of the original bridge, but it has since been rebuilt. Despite the damage, it’s still a beautiful city, though you can still sense some ill-ease in the air. One obvious symptom was the gigantic church steeple, erected specifically to be taller than any of the local mosques’ minarets. Still, it was a nice experience if a little touristy. I think the most memorable thing for me was the strikingly emerald water in the river.
Misty Mountains and Winding Roads
More Mist on Mountains, This Time with Water and an Old Bridge
Mountains and Sky
Signs of Battle in Mostar
The other side of the street; the tourist town we were visiting was the scene of one of the war's front lines.
The Base of the Church with the Bell Tower
The Tall Tower
Still a Lot of Rebuilding to Do
They Are Making Progress, Though
Approaching the Bridge at the City Center
Looking back on our Way to the Bridge
A Look at the Tower, with Another Sign of Who is Boss Over the Town
Not Sure if This Was Supporting a Football Club or a Partisan Group or What
Carey and I said goodbye to Cairo on the early morning of Sept. 14th, 2007 and were happy to leave. We had gotten the hostel owner to set us up with a driver (his cousin or something who had his own independent service). We agreed upon a set price for the fare, but, of course, the guy wanted baksheesh. We didn’t tip him despite his qualms and went into the airport. It was another bit of shuffling around and Carey spending his last Egyptian pounds on us to snack and hydrate. I was not looking forward to what a flight was going to do to m stomach, but it ended up being ok. Before a terribly long time we were on our way to Sarajevo. It felt good to see the Balkans and other such mountains under us once we got back into Europe. I have to admit, I feel comfortable in southeastern mountain ranges there now. I enjoy them. I’m familiar and comfortable with them. I was not so with Cairo. I’m sure that I could have gotten used to Egypt, but Cairo was too much. Once we landed Carey and I were very pleased to be able to use our Bulgarian again to communicate to others (Bulgarian and Serbo-Croation are pretty close) rather than to hide our identities as Americans. We were able to catch a cab after deciding not to use one guy who was trying to rip us off (or maybe we didn’t and did get taken for a literal ride, but I remember arguing with a cabby). Anyway, we arrived into downtown Sarajevo without too much incident (no lost luggage this time) and got in touch with Ben to meet us out in his building’s lobby. After a quick lunch of chicken sandwiches we were able to drop our bags off at Ben’s and explore the city a bit while he returned to work.
Sarajevo's Eternal Flame Dedicated to the Fallen of WWII
Carey and I did some walking around, hit up an internet cafe I’m sure, and basically just enjoyed not being in Cairo (recurring theme, I know). Afterward Ben and his then new wife Ivana met up with us and we went to a street cafe before decided to get dinner at the Sarajevo Pivaria, or brewery. We ended up there a few nights during our stay, but it was good and fun. Here are some more pictures from that first day.
Ben and Ivana at a Cafe
Bullet Holes from the War on Ben's Apartment's Outer Wall
The View from Ben's Terrace
Day 2 in Sarajevo (Sept. 15, 2007) was a Saturday, so Ben and Ivana both had the day off and were able to show us around. Our principal objective for the trip was to weave through some of the old town and make our way to a hilltop cafe called Biban. We also stopped every now and then for local delights and to just chill and enjoy the city. Here are some pics from that walk.
A Building Still Bombed Out from the War
Baščaršija, a Famous Street / Neighborhood in the Old Turkish Quarter
At a Mexican Place in Baščaršija
Carey Eating Burek, It's Hot!
Carey and Ben Sitting Opposite the Store I Was Shopping At
The Main Square in Baščaršija
Never Quite Figured Out What This Place Was, But Better Looks at it Reveal Massive Bomb Damage
The Old (Bombed Out) University Library
The Bridge Where WWI Started
A Chinese Tower Cafe, Where Later in Our Stay We Got Refreshments
Men Playing Chess During the Sarajevo Bee Festival
Ben and Ivana at Cafe Biban
Uppers + Downwers = Heaven Mid-Hike
Sarajevo from Cafe Biban
Still Newlyweds
Narrow Sidewalk
A Sarajevo Rose - Site Where a Mortar Killed Someone
After the hike Ben arranged for us to experience a rare treat. The Italian Embassy was giving a concert in the old library seen above and arranged admittance for us. It was a great night of excellent music in a beautiful old ruin of a building. They’re slowly restoring it, but much, much work was still yet to be done.
Awesome! I hadn’t seen this version before. Thanks, Ivan!
Also, I’ve been super-swamped lately. In case y’all didn’t notice, we had a hurricane come through Baton Rouge, then I had to do a bunch of United Way stuff with that, and now I’m currently working on studying for the Foriegn Service Officer’s Exam and the lenghty application to take the test. So be patient with me, I’ll try and get some more content up soon, but don’t hold your breath.
That’s right. I said it. You don’t even have to do it ironically to enjoy these guys. Well, yeah, maybe you do, but they’re still awesome. I just find it amazing that they’re still out there doing their thing.
So this is the original 1976 video. Pretty basic. The dude’s pretty calm. Horrible and unsynced choreography, but you can see how they really polished it up and kicked it up a notch for this next one.
This is the 1986 re-recorded version. Whoa! Unison! Crazy shirtless dude going crazy and shirtless! How can you not love this?! I mean seriously, I think the only way to respond to having seen this video would be this:
I mean, really, can you dig it?
So here we’ve fast fowarded to 2005. These guys are still doing their thing! Crazy shirtless dude is still shirtless and crazy, and old now too! Bonus!
So here the dude waxes philosophical in front of a crowd of Italians who just don’t understand English, or maybe the BS he was spitting out was just too crazy for them? Either way, this is clearly a rather weak performance. The vocal quality has obviously gone down, and he’s starting improvising a lot too. Hrmm… I wonder where this leads?
New dancer! Sadly, his craziness is obviously affected, and his shirtlessness falls flat. His vocals also do poorly, even compared to the other guy when he got old. Sad.
Anyway, that’s your lesson in the awesomeness of yesteryear, kids.
