Plovdiv / Пловдив (plove-div (like a clove of garlic), not plov-div) – The Second Largest City

Thanks to PCVs Maggie Minor and Brian Fassett both for helping me with this page of the site!

This information was current in 2006.  I cannot vouch for the information beyond that year.

Orientation:

Map

Most likely when you arrive in Plovdiv you’ll be either at the south bus station (Avtogara Yug) or the trainstation. The easiest way to get to where you want to be from there is to get to Ivan Vazoz Street. From the bus station you’ll turn right as you face the main road it’s on (you’ll notice an overpass on your left, across that is the Rhodope Bus Station for trips to the mountains, and also a Billa supermarket) and walk a block to BLVD Ruski. From the train station, which is a block away from Ruski from the opposite direction, you’ll naturally turn right to get there. Go up Ruski one block to Ivan Vazon Street and trek the nine blocks it takes to get to the center. Now you’re ready to pick your way. As you look across the center from where Ivan Vazov empties into it, there are a few main roads leading north. On the left is the main shopping street, called Knyaz Alexander Street, but is known by the locals as “glavnata” – the main. This is the one most folks know with the McD’s and tons of boutiques. On this street are the remains of a Roman stadium and a very large mosque, both important landmarks for your bearings. East of that street (thus to the right of it facing from Ivan Vazov) is the old city of Plovdiv, containing many churches and the crown jewel of Plovdiv, a amazingly well preserved Roman amphitheatre.

Where to Stay:

The Queen Mary Bed and Breakfast
Clean and homey, The Queen Mary is one of the most comfortable hostels in Bulgaria. Outdoor terraces, sunlit rooms, and a central location make this one of my favorite places to stay in all of Bulgaria.

PBI Hostel
A bare bones hostel service in the center of Plovdiv. Safe, reputable, and located closely to the bus and train stations. Some PCVs have noted that it can be cold in the winter though.

Hikers Hostel
I’ve never stayed here, but it comes highly recommended from other reputable hostels, is located in the old city (thus further up from TQM or PBI), and seems to have a lot of amenities.

Sportna Sreshta Hostel:
Located on the back edge of the old city, this hostel operates in an historic Bulgarian home. It offers all the basics, but also has bike rentals, internet access, and an outdoor garden.
Address: 5 PR Slaveikov St
Email: sportna_sreshta@hotmail.com
Phone: 03-263-5115

Where to Eat:

Red Dragon:
Chinese food in Bulgaria isn’t like going to the Great Wall all you can eat buffet back home, but sometimes you just jones for it. Red Dragon is the best Plovdiv has to offer in this regard. Red Dragon is easy to find just up Ruski from the central train station across from Alosha Hill.

Asia:
 Located on the corner of 6 Semptemvri and Tsar Boris III it is about as far north you’ll want to travel in Plovdiv. Three more blocks up you’re across the river. To get there, simply get to a point north of the amphitheatre and then follow Boris III north till you find the square where it meets 6 Semptemvri. Look for the red lanterns.

Hemmingway’s:
Americanesque cuisine in Plovdiv. Located just off the center square, go one block north on the main pedestrian street and turn right onto Gurko. It’s number ten. Expensive, but nice.

Arabski Grill:
Located off the center square directly across Tsar Boris III from the Trimontiam Hotel and the Central Post Office.

Veselo Selo:
One of the best Mehanas (traditional Bulgarian tavern) Plovdiv has to offer, this is place has live music, a huge wine selection, and farm animals in the courtyard. Veselo Selo is located on the first roundabout past the international fair, across the river from the old city (taking Tsar Boris III). Calling ahead for reservations is recommended. 03-295-5118.

Erevan:
A small Armenian restaurant with great food and incredible service. Just tell the owner vegetarian or nor, and he takes it from there (or have one of the daily specials). The owner describes the food as “Bulgarian, but with flavor.” Located one block off the Glavnata (that main shopping street) behind the Hotel Bulgaria.

The Rozenhof Belgian Beer Cafe:
This place has the best and most expensive beer in Plovdiv. There are regular beer specials and a tasty variety of food served in small portions along with loud music. It’s located near the Intersection of 6 Septemvri and Ruski, on the corner of the park. Just walk northwest from the Mosque on Danov and you’ll find it on your right.
Address: 36 Hr. G. Danov St.
Phone: 03-263-1157

Verdi:
Good pizza, particularly their namesake, the Verdi. Multiple locations around town.

Gusto:
A Pizza place just off the center, Gusto has a wide selection of wood fire pizzas and salads.
On the corner across from Hotel Bulgaria.

Going Out:

Programata, Plovdiv Edition:
“The Program” is a complete guide to Plovdiv entertainment. It has movie listings, theatre listings, and even what’s going on in the clubs.

Marmalad:
A B18 favorite, Maramalad where was where we chilled on trips to Plovdiv during the weekend. Trendy and with a dance floor downstairs, Marmalade is host to Tuesday night piano bar, Wednesday night karaoke tournaments, and Friday and Saturday night club dancing. To get there, head north from the mosque and Roman stadium to Bratia Pulevi – 4 streets away – and turn right.

Infinity:
Across the street from Marmalad and decked out in an Egyptian theme, I’ve been there only once and like Marmalad better, despite it being much larger. Mostly I just felt it was too kitschy and that the girls dancing on the girls dancing on the bar were only just clad scantily enough that it came up a hair short of compensating for the fact they they were annoying aside from the obvious value of having a hot girl having her calves at eye level. Still, if you want something different, large, and with girls on the bar, try this place.

Nylon:
Nylon is small, rustic, and has good music and beer on tap.
Turn at the Office 1 store on Glavnata and it’s a half block down.

Gepi:
A Good place for live music and dancing. Located up the hill a bit from the Roman Stadium and the mosque. It should be on your left just as the pedestrian way ends.

The Trap:
Is the neighborhood that Marmalade and infinity are located. There are lots of other bars in the area, so just look around and see what you like.