Sofia / София (soph-yuh, not so-fi’-ah) – The Capital
Before proceeding, I would like to extend my thanks to Andrea Enright for all of her help in and encouragement in writing this section of the website. She and her Husband Boudreaux hosted me on my first trip to Sofia and were the ones who gave me my first pointers and tips when I began exploring the maze of streets that make up the Bulgarian capital. Thanks!
Also, I wrote this guide in 2006 and then left in September 2007. Some of this is going to be outdated. Still, you should find some gems in here if you’re visiting Sofia.
Orientation:
To get to the center from the central train or bus stations (located next to to one another) simple start walking toward the right facing out from either of them (if your looking at the big white tent from the bus station, head the other way). This main road will curve south and turn into Marie Louiza, you’ll cross the canal on a bridge framed by statues of large lions, and then continue south until you see the lower than ground level church called St. Nedelia. Go down through the passage into the shopping area surrounding the church and once you’re up on the other side, you’re on Vitosha, the main pedestrian and shopping drag.
As a general reference, there are two triangles, in which most things of interest in the center of Sofia lie. The first and bigger triangle is framed by Vitosha (running north to south), Vasil Levski (running southwest to northeast), and Tsar Osvoboditel (running southeast to northwest). In this larger triangle are most of the resaurants and clubs you’ll be going to. A second, smaller triangle is formed by Vasil Levski after it curves northward, and Tsar Osvoboditel and Alexandar Dondukov, which run southeast and east, respectively, from the Largo (keep reading). At the head of this smaller triangle is the presidential palace, which points towards the TzUM Retail Center (different but near the Holli Retail Center) and the Sheraton (between which lies the Largo, with all the flags). Also in this smaller triangle lies Alexander Nevski Cathedral, the Russian Church, and the best coffee shop in Sofia (can’t recall the name but it’s across the street from the Russian Church). Two important streets lying within the first triangle are Rakovski and Graf Ignatiev,
NDK (National Home of Culture) is the BIG building at the south end of Vitosha (well, Vitosha keeps going, but there’s nothing worth going to down there), which is the main pedestrian drag in the center off of which most hostels will be located. Below it is a movie theatre (listed as Multiplex United Cinema). As you face north from NDK’s entrance (towards Vitosha Blvd), Vasil Levski Blvd is on your right, curving round to the north east. South of this street is Levski Stadium. Levski Blvd empties into a large space dominated by Sofia University, the Radisson Hotel (home to Flannagan’s), and the National Assembly. You can turn left (northwest) there and go up Tsar Osvoboditel towards the National Art Gallery and Ethnographical Museum. At the end of this street you’ll find the Sheraton Hotel, Largo, etc., on the other side of which is St. Nedelia, the oldest church in the city, and the northern starting point of Vitosha. If you turn right there on Maria Louiza, on which is located the Holli Retail Center, and are heading back towards the bus and train stations.
Sofia is a big place, but usually PCVs stick to the center. Visits to the Peace Corps office in the Krasno Selo part of town are common, as are night outings to the club and disco filled Studentski Grad, but these are a tram or cab ride away from all the places you’ll want to lay your head down at the end of the night.
Where to Stay:
Hostel Mostel:
My personal favorite, Mostel is friendly, comfortable, English-speaking, and cheap. Offers day trips, free breakfast and lunch, free internet, cable in the lobby, free map, and pick-up from the bus/train stations and the airport. Centrally located two blocks off of Vitosha Blvd. in the center of Sofia with easy access to Sofia’s finest restaurants, bars, shops, and movie theatres by foot or nearby trolley or metro stops. Mostel is a hip place, but can also be loud and busy. Also, in winter, some have complained that Hostel Mostel can be a bit cold. If you want something more laid back (and dare I say “warmer” in winter), try Hostel Sofia, listed below.
Directions in link.
Hostel Sofia:
Family owned and operated, if you prefer a more intimate and quiet atmosphere try Hostel Sofia instead of Mostel. Sofia, just like Mostel, is located in the city center in easy walking distance of everywhere you want to go.
Directions in link.
Sofia is a haven of food for PCVs throughout Bulgaria. While there are many Chinese and Italian places in many of the larger towns and cities throughout the country, Sofia is home to the best of everything. Sofia also hosts the most American chain restaurants, including Dunkin’ Donuts, Subways, KFCs, and five McDonalds, all in the city center.
Taj Mahal:
This indian place is as good as it gets when it comes to ethnic food in Bulgaria. The hot curries there actually put a fire into this Louisianan’s mouth, and I’m used to hot. The milder dishes have good flavors that border on the sublime. I can’t reccomend it enough.
To get there, head east down Dondukov and turn right on 11 August St (due north of Nevski Cathedral) You’ll see it.
The Sofia Echo Review of Taj Mahal
Flannagans:
In the word’s of Peace Corps’s own Sofianka, Andrea Enright:
“If you’re looking for a real burger, there’s only one place to go: Flannagans. It is in the Radisson (I know, hotel bars aren’t the hippest) but once you have the burger (7 leva), you won’t care. Flannagans also has excellent bar food and expensive but yummy theme nights. On Friday nights women drink free.”
She ain’t kidding, folks. I introduced the Flannagans burger to the B18s while we were at IST in Bankia, and everyone has been lusting after it ever since. It truly is the best burger in Bulgaria. It’s big, juicy, and comes with a ton of fries. Flannagans also offers the widest range of steaks and other Western dishes that other places in Bulgaria just can’t compete with. Just keep in mind that while the burger’s only 7 leva, the rest can get pricey. Don’t forget also, that there’s Guinness on tap.
The Radisson is located at Tsar Osvoboditel and Vasil Levsky, Across from the National Assembly. There’s a big horse rider monument to the liberators in from of it. You can’t miss it.
J.J. Murphey’s:
Murphey’s has a more authentic feel to it than Flannagans does. It’s more intimate, darker, smokier, and louder. While not a proper “battle” for you lot that speak Cockney, it’s about as close as you can get in Bulgaria without going to a Bulgarian krachma (dive). Murphey’s is great because it’s located right of Vitosha near the major PCV used hostels (Mostel and Sofia) and serves Murphey’s Irish Red and Porter Stout on tap. It has a selection of decent bar food, a burger, and a steak, though none that compare to Flannagans.
To get to Murphey’s go west on Karningradska St. for a block and a half from Vitosha. This street is just south of Denkoglu, where Mostel is located, and across the street from Dunkin Donuts.
Machu Pichu:
Despite it’s Peruvian nomenclature, Machu Pichu is actually a Mexican restaurant, or as close as one can get to it in Bulgaria. Decent place, if not up to standards of what’s available back home. I’ve only been there once, but will go back sometime when I’m in Sofia.
To get there, head behind the Radisson down Tsar Ivan Shishman and it’s on Slavyanska (the second street). Not sure if you turn right of left there, but it’s only four blocks long anyway.
The Sofia Echo Review of Machu Pichu
The Sushi Bar:
Located just a block or two towards Vitosha from Hostel Mostel, this is one of the first places PCVs discover in Sofia. Small and exotically decorated with traditional paintings of Geishas and Samurais from Japanese scroll work, this sushi restaurant is small and has a limited selection, but what is there is good and moderately priced for what it is and where you are.
To get there, go west down Denkoglu from Vitosha. Denkoglu is kitty-corner to the McDonald’s on Vitosha.
Sushi Bar Bibliotekata:
Located at the National Library just north of Sofia University (across the street from the Radisson). I’ve never been, but I’ve heard good things about it.
The Sofia Echo’s Review of Sushi Bar Bibliotekata
Pri Kmeta:
Called “the mayor’s pub” because of it proximity to his office, Pri Kmeta is a German style beer hall that brews it’s own dark, red, or light beer (all on tap) (the light beers tend to float betweens whites and pilsners depending on when you go). You can order small, medium, large, liter (in a German style Maß bier mug), or meter (in a large, meter long tube that functions as a tap). Food there is typical non-descript Bulgarian restaurant faire with a good bit of salads, pizzas, and stuff from the grille. PCV Carey Clinton recommends the garlic sauce (chesunov sauce) It’s located on the west side on Paris St., which runs north from St. Sofia Church (the smaller church on Nevski Cathedral’s northwest corner). If you hit Dondukov, you’ve gone too far. Pri Kemeta is large and can play host to large parties if you call ahead.
Ugo:
Located on Vitosha and Gladston, Udo is open 24 hours a day and has a wide variety of pizzas and salad and lots of other stuff. If you’re jonesing for some grub after the disco, this is the place to be. One of my favorite things to do is get a pizza to go (za kushta) from here and eat back at the hostel while checking my email before bed.
Before you read on, Sofia is an expensive place to hang out in, and a lot of these places will drain your meager PCV budget quicker than you can say “OOOooooh… they have Knob Creek back there!” The places listed below are pretty nice, since that’s what you come to Sofia for… the nice places. Besides, anywhere really cheap is going to be a ways away from your hostel in the center and who wants to figure out how to get back after a night of knocking back cheap booze?
Secondly, Studentski Grad is club central for the younger crowd, but you’ll have to cab it. Cheaper, more crowded, and younger, this is party central. Just wander around till you find a place you like. As always, I suggest checking Programata before heading out, since you might find something that interests you specifically.
Programata:
“The Program” is a complete guide to Sofia entertainment. It has movie listings, theatre listings, and even what’s going on in the clubs. If you need to know where any of this stuff is going on, just consult the hostel guys. Most cabs will be able to take you anywhere you want to go anyway. For any other things of major significance, just use your guidebooks. They’ll have the info on churches and museums.
Candlebar:
My favorite bar in Sofia.
Known by locals as “the barn” (hambara), this place is hard to find and off the tourist track. It’s located in an unmarked courtyard, and it’s entrance is unmarked and usually closed and locked. But once you knock and are let in, you’re greeted with nothing but soft jazz, candlelight, and an atmosphere comprised completely of dark wooden plank covered in wax. There are no electric lights in Candlebar. Definitely worth the trip.
Finding Candlebar can be an adventure even if you know where it is in theory. It’s located inside the courtyard of a large building on the corner of Han Krum and 6 Septemvri. Just walk down Graf Ignatiev from further north. Take a right onto 6 Septemvri at the Post Bank location. Then do down to the first corner and take a right into the courtyard under a Stella Artois sign. There are two entrances into the decrepit courtyard, one on each street. Once inside, find the door that has a crude shelter built around it, and knock.
Luciano’s:
My next favorite bar in Sofia.
This beer hall closes early, but has 1.50 leva draft beers (including Czech beer Staropramen), so it’s a great place to pre-party. It also features many international beers in bottles and cans. Got a favorite from somewhere not in Bulgaria? They might just have it.
Located across the street from the Book Pazar on Graf Ignatiev, you have to go down a hallway in the midst of the buildings. It’s on the back on the right.
Apartamenta:
My third favorite. Overpriced, but super fun. I’m adding this one since having left, and I can’t find the Programata entry on it (though I think it’s this one). Anyway, this place is set up like a private apartment. You walk in, grab a couch, get beers from the fridge, and pay in the kitchen. It’s really cool, chill, and big. You and your friends can take up the entirety of one of the many differently themed rooms throughout the floor of this apartment that takes up a large floor of one apartment building. Lots of artwork on the walls, too.
Buddha Bar:
Revered by locals and ex-pats, Buddha Bar is swank and exotic. From Programata: “In the more quiet part of Buddha Bar you can relax in a cozy atmosphere with fireplace and lit candles, and in the absolutely free of charge entertainment room – games such as backgammon, chess and cards.” Hookah’s are 8 leva, and come in a variety of flavors.
To get there, head east on Alabin (The McD’s is on the corner of Vitosha and Alabin). Take a left on Lege. You can’t miss it.
Planet Club:
Swank like “whoa…,” but full of beautiful people and those that have money to throw around. From Programata, “after 8 p.m. a DJ lifts the spirits. Disco, house, chill out make up the club’s music scheme and bring in the spirit of the European capitals. In case you are a lover of the high quality liquor, here you will find more than 70 cocktails, exactly 138 brands of whiskey, and 34 types of fresh juice.”
To get there just go behind Nevski Cathedral. It’s on the road directly behind it called Oborishte.
Babbles:
Cool and swanky, according to Andrea.
Head behind the Radisson on Tsar Ivan Shishman and it’s on the right after a little ways.
Swingin’ Bar:
Live jam music as well as jazz, Latin, rock, and pop is common here.
Located on Dragan Tsankov (the southernmost of the two toads that frame the “endzones” of Leski stadium).
Cargo:
Small and hip, located near Buddha Bar.
Take Alabin eastward from the Mc’Ds on Vitosha and take your first left onto Tsar Kaloyan. It’s on the corner after one block.
Maskata:
A karaoke and live music joint in Studentski Grad. From Andrea, “everyone says its hip, cheap, dive-ish, cheesy, awesome fun place to hang out. I’ve never been.” Neither have I, but it sounds cool.
Brilantine:
From Andrea, “The Upstairs at Brigantine is cool with video screens and a retro night on Thursday. Lots of dancing near the couches.”
Located on Moskovska St., which bisects the triangle formed by Tsar Osvoboditel and Alexander Dondukov and lies west of Nevski Cathedral and behind the National Art Gallery.
